Ladakh
Cultural Tour
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Features of People
The people of Ladakh are hardy and tough akin to the rugged mountains which
surround their dwellings yet very soft and plane at heart .With round faces,
short noses, and chinki eyes they resemble more to the people of Tibet and
central Asia than of India.
The original population is believed to have been that of Dards, an
Indo-Aryan race from down the Indus. But over years, a huge influx from
Tibet overwhelmed the culture of the "Dards" and obliterated their
racial characteristics. In eastern and central Ladakh, today's population
seems to be mostly of Tibetan origin. Further west, in and around Kargil ,
there is much in the people's appearance that suggests a mixed origin. The
exception to this generalization is the "Arghon", a community of
Muslims in Leh, the descendants of marriages between local women and
Kashmiri or Central Asian merchants.
Influence Of Buddhism
Buddhism reached Tibet from India via Ladakh, and there are ancient Buddhist
frock engravings all over the region, even in areas like Drass and the lower
Suru valley which today are inhabited by an exclusively Muslim population.
The approach to a Buddhist Village is invariably marked by 'Mani' walls,
which are ling chest-high structures faced with engraved stones bearing the
Mantra "Om Mane Padme Hum" and by 'Chorten', commemorative cairns,
like stone pepper-posts. Many villages are crowned with a 'Gompa' or
monastery, which may be anything from an imposing complex of temples, prayer
halls and monks' dwellings, to a tiny hermitage housing a single image and
home to a solitary Lama.
The Muslim Inhabitants
Islam too came from the west. A peaceful penetration of the 'Shia' sect
spearheaded by missionaries, its success was guaranteed by the early
conversion of the Sub-rulers of Drass, Kargil and the Suru Valley. In these
areas, 'Mani' walls and Chorten are replaced by mosques often-small
unpretentious buildings, or 'Imambaras' imposing structures in the Islamic
style, surmounted by domes of sheet metal that gleam cheerfully in the sun.
Women of Ladakh
In Leh area women of both the communities, Buddhist and Muslim, enjoy a
greater freedom than other parts of the region. They not only work in the
house and field, but also do business and interact freely with men other
than their own relations. In Kargil and its adjoining regions on the other
hand, it is only in the last few years that women are merging from
semi-seclusion and taking jobs other than traditional ones like farming and
house-keeping.
Traditional Rituals & Leisure Activities
The natural joie-de-vivre of the Ladakhis is given free rein by the ancient
traditions of the region. Monastic and other religious festivals, many of
which fall in winter, provide the excuse for convivial gatherings. Summer
pastimes all over the region are archery and polo. Among the Buddhists,
these often develop into open-air parties accompanied by dance and song, at
which 'Chang', the local brew made from fermented barley, flows freely.
Oral Tradition
Of the secular culture, the most important element is the rich oral
literature of songs and poems for every occasions, as well as local versions
of the "Kesar Saga", the Tibetan national epic. This literature is
common to both Buddhists and Muslims.
Ceremonies
Ceremonial and public events are accompanied by the characteristic music of
'Surna' and 'Daman' (Oboe and drum), originally introduced into Ladakh from
Muslim Baltistan, but now played only by Buddhist musicians known as "Mons".
The first year of childbirth is marked by celebrations at different
intervals of time, Beginning with a function held after 15 days, then after
one month, and then again at the end of year. All relatives, neighbors and
friends are invited and served with 'Tsampa', butter and sugar, along with
tea by the family in which the child is born.
Rules of Inheritance
When the father of the family dies his place is taken by the eldest brother.
The other brothers must obey the eldest brother. All inheritance of the
family goes to the eldest brother and then to the next brother when he dies.
If the family consists of all girls, then the father will bring the husband
of the eldest daughter into the house and all land stays in the daughter's
name and passes to her first son. Both sets of parents must accept the
proposal of the boy for the girl. Usually the marriage is set by both sets
of parents, who will choose a suitable partner for their child on the basis
of manner, health and ability to earn income and look after a house.
Leisure Activities
Polo and archery are the two favourite past times. In Leh, and may of the
villages, archery festivals are held during the summer months, with a lot of
fun and fanfare. Different teams from surrounding villages compete with each
other in these archery festivals, and the shooting takes place according to
strict etiquette, to the accompaniment of the music of surna and daman (oboe
and drum). As important as the archery are the interludes of dancing and
other entertainment. Chang, the local barley beer, flows freely, but there
is rarely any rowdiness.
Unlike the international game, Polo in Ladakh is not exclusively for the
rich. Traditionally, almost every village had its polo-ground, and even
today it is played with verve in many places.Probably introduced into Ladakh
in the mid-17th century by King Sengge Namgyal, Polo played here differs in
many respects from the international game. Here, each team consists of six
players,and the game lasts for an hour with a ten minute break. Altitude
notwithstanding, the hardy local ponies - the best of which come from
Zanskar- scarcely seem to suffer, though play can be fast and furious. Each
goal is greeted by a bust of music from surna and daman ; and the players
often show extraordinary skill. For example, when starting play after a goal
the scorer gallops up to midfield holding ball and mallet in the right hand,
and throws the ball, hitting it in the same movement towards the opposite
goal.